Comment: The rise of natural wine

By Elin McCoy

Natural wine has arguably been the major movement of the 21st Century wine world, and for some it has also become a ‘lifetsyle choice’, writes Elin McCoy, ahead of the Raw wine fair in London and after visiting the New York version of the show.
Read more at https://www.decanter.com/premium/natural-wine-movement-elin-mccoy-385311/#BDlR1t633CeBYUhM.99

Some of the wines previously on show at Raw Fair in London. Credit: Raw Wine Fair Read more at https://www.decanter.com/premium/natural-wine-movement-elin-mccoy-385311/#BDlR1t633CeBYUhM.99

The setting of a trade and consumer tasting invariably projects the image of the wines you’re about to sample.

I had that thought in mind at New York’s second annual Raw Wine fair [November 2017], the global exposition of natural wines founded by Master of Wine Isabelle Legeron.

First off, the NY fair was squirreled away in a warehouse district in hipster Brooklyn, rather than in glitzy Manhattan. The producers’ tables were lined up in a reclaimed industrial space with a cavernous, artist’s loft appeal: high ceilings, rough brick walls, giant windows, exposed beams and concrete floors.

The unmistakable vibe of ‘We’re all rebel artisan producers here’ sent a warning and a promise: don’t expect polished or, heaven forbid, luxury bottles; this is the gritty, real stuff, made by real people from real grapes grown in real vineyards.

That image extended to the attendees – young (under 35) drinkers in worn jeans, fleece vests and scuffed designer boots – and to the food: grain bowls and pizza to wolf down at picnic tables in the gravel courtyard.

Read the full article online here.

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